Seiko uses its popular Marine Master dive watch as the foundation of this vintage-inspired mechanical GMT. Reference: SPB381, Price: $1,500, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 6R54 Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation GMT SPB381 The three-link bracelets fasten to the wrist with a three-fold clasp. The subdials are subtly translucent, so as to allow light to penetrate and charge the solar movement inside, the same V192 that operates the 39mm Speedtimers. The color options include a silver-and-black “panda,” a blue dial with red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel, and a black dial with red-and-black “Coke” bezel. The 42mm cases (actually 41.4mm, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 45.9, just a smidgen up from the 39mm predecessors) are made of stainless steel, with aluminum tachymeter bezel inserts. Seiko built upon the popularity of its revived Speedtimer models with a new case size and new colorways in 2023. Reference: SSC913, Price: $700, Case Size: 41.4mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192 The tachymeter scale is etched into the stationary bezel, and the dial’s intuitive design uses red detailing for the central seconds hand and the elapsed minutes hand on the 6 o’clock subdial at 6 o’clock for easy reading of the chronograph displays. When Seiko revived the Speedtimer, as part of its sport-oriented Prospex collection, it decided to eschew the automatic mechanical movement in favor a new, high-tech, solar-powered one, Caliber V192, which enhances reliability and runs up to six months on a single charge from any light source. The original Seiko Speedtimer, released in 1969, was among the world’s first self-winding chronograph watches, equipped with the legendary Caliber 6139. Reference: SSC813, Price: $675, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192 The matte-black dial has bright colored details (red seconds hand, blue “Sports”: text at 6 o’clock, baton hands, and the day-date window at 3 o’clock and crown at 4 o’clock that distinguish the contemporary 5 Sports family. Based on the original Seiko 5 model from 1968, it is one of the brand’s most faithful homage pieces, with the period-accurate 39mm case bearing scalloped lugs and a radial-brushed bezel, and the flexible, single-link brushed steel bracelet that undoubtedly gave the original watch a futuristic vibe during the space-race optimism of the late 1960s. Seiko has been mining its archives quite successfully in recent years for new, retro-look models that speak to today’s budding watch enthusiast, and the SRPK17 is one of the most recent examples. Reference: SRPK17, Price: $415, Case Size: 39.5mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36 Many will find these 38mm models even more versatile and wearable than their larger cousins, especially with the solid three-link steel bracelet. Reference: SRPK31, Price: $325, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.1mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36īuilding on the success of the revived 5 Sports models are a quartet of watches launched in 2023 with reduced case dimensions of 38mm and an array of colorful dials. Like their predecessors, the watches evoke many of the beloved SKX elements, such as the unidirectional dive-scale bezel, Lumibrite-coated hands, day-date window at 3 o’clock, crown at 4 o’clock, and exhibition caseback showing off the self-winding 4R36 caliber. The Midfield models are offered in several colorways and with several bracelet and strap options including a nylon NATO. The sturdy, reliable automatic movement includes a hacking seconds function, another useful element of watches worn by grunts on the battlefield. The case’s matte, bead-blasted finish adds to its understated appeal and the dial’s inner 24-hour scale speaks to the early military-worn timepieces that inspired its design. Its 36mm case distinguishes it from the larger field watches in the Seiko 5 Sports collection, from the SBSA family.
Reference: SRPJ1K1, Price: $295, Case Size: 36.37mm, Thickness: 12.52mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.43mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36Īnother recent revival of a discontinued fan-favorite - namely the SNK 800 line of affordable, modestly dimensioned field watches - the 5 Sports Midfield evokes both nostalgia and a utilitarian military vibe. 0% interest for up to 24 months available on select brands.
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